Can “Sustainable Fashion” Exist Under Capitalism?

by Lauren Ritchie

The past few years, more and more people are waking up to the true cost of consuming fast fashion. This includes, but is not limited to: environmental degradation, waste accumulation, water waste, and human suffering and exploitation. The biggest abomination of all is how our society deeply ingrains the belief within us that clothes are made for short-term enjoyment and long term disposal. 

The Rise of Sustainable Fashion

In response to the bad reputation of fast fashion, there’s been a sudden uptick of eco-friendly fashion brands and conscious initiatives. These brands claim that they are the solution via their “slow fashion” or “ethical” options for shoppers. They usually spotlight their commitments to corporate social responsibility, a cleaner supply chain, fair labor practices, and more. Sounds great, right? It is until people exploit this trend and come up with empty promises. 

These companies are building a reputation that they are the antithesis of fast fashion. However, as we take a closer look- some of these fashion brands aren’t so green and shiny. To be fair, some fashion brands are certainly trying to check all the sustainable boxes. The harsh reality, however, is that most of these self-proclaimed ethical brands are missing the mark… by a long shot. So how do we examine which brands are worth the investment, and which are continuing to contribute to the problem?

When it comes to ethical fashion brands, sometimes less is more. 

For consumers, filling our shopping carts with sustainable products is not so easy. Although there are definitely more options to choose from, there’s also a much higher chance that we may choose an inauthentic brand. One that is in the sustainability game for all of the wrong reasons (read: to line their own pockets). 

Greenwashing is a term for the widespread phenomena of brands or companies providing misleading information about their sustainable practices. This may look like companies that over-exaggerate their green practices and their benefits. They may omit or lie about what is happening behind the scenes within their supply chains as well. Or even if they meet some environmental sustainability standards, they will fairly address social sustainability. This includes anti-racism and fair wages for their employees. In short, greenwashing is a way for brands to profit off rising eco-anxiety and consumer guilt.

This process is actually a lot more common than you would think, especially amongst “sustainable” brands. You will often find some companies will expend more resources and money into marketing to appear more sustainable to consumers. This is to compensate for the time they will actually invest in actual environmentally sound practices. Ultimately, greenwashing is a scheme a company will use to cover up their unsustainable corporate agendas. They will continue to tout and profit off the guise of eco-friendly/natural products.

So, if the road to hell is paved with good intentions and sustainable fashion continues to be a hot commodity that many companies are latching on to for more PR dollars, what can we do? What does “ethical fashion” truly look like under capitalism?

Let’s not hate on fast fashion.. too much 

It goes without saying that the fashion industry is one of the biggest culprits of perpetuating capitalism. This is why fast fashion continues to grow and thrive. One of the main driving forces that makes the fast fashion industry so successful is the fact that it’s affordable. As someone who consistently advocates for inclusivity and intersectionality within the climate movement, I would never endorse shaming others for buying fast fashion. I realize that if it is all that they can afford, I can understand the obvious appeal of buying lots of clothing for a cheap price. 

I am well aware that it is hypocritical and classist for me to judge someone for buying fast fashion. Also, how can I, in good conscience, criticize anyone about this knowing there are very few affordable ethical clothing brands? Especially most of which are not very size-inclusive?

And even if a company is “ethical,” many lack diversity or perpetuate anti-blackness in their campaigns and products. So it’s hard to say that it’s that much better than fast fashion moving forward.

Even thrifting is getting expensive

To mitigate this, many look to thrift shopping as a more affordable ethical fashion alternative. What used to be a “lower class” and “unbecoming” activity is now a trendy and quirky hobby for wealthy elites.  Due to this uptick of sustainable fashion shoppers, prices are continuing to rise. Now it’s more difficult for low-income communities to find clothes in the stores that they once relied on (thank you, capitalism). 

So what are our options?

The deeper you dive into the fashion industry, you begin to understand how complex and hard it can be to find the best solution. From addressing supply chains to our own shopping habits, the more clear it becomes that there really is no simple solution – every scenario comes with a bit of give and take. In today’s society, it often feels nearly impossible to shop ethically as the majority of us can’t afford clothes from ethical brands. Thus,  we are left to either buy from fast fashion or to settle for an affordable ethical option that falls short in some other area. No one wins. 

As cheesy as it is, the most ethical fashion option is often to not buy anything at all. We really need to take better care of the clothes that we already own. Also, we need to value and mend our clothes for long term use. Perhaps, ethical fashion under capitalism involves educating ourselves about planned obsolescence. For us to realize that our relationship to what we own is ultimately more important than where it comes from. Lastly, we must challenge the notion that we need a new outfit for every occasion or that our worth is defined by our material possessions.

Perhaps it’s just about all of us doing the best we can, and not being so quick to spend our money to buy off our values, but to actually live them.

Lauren Ritchie is a Bahamian student, and avid animal lover, at Columbia University studying Sustainable Development and Political Science. She wants to increase representation of people of color in the climate conversation, particularly the Caribbean community.